Incorporation of ceramide 3B in dermatocosmetic emulsions: effect on the transepidermal water loss of sodium lauryl sulphate-damaged skin

Background: In previous work we reported on the efficacy of cosmetic body lotions enriched with skin-identical lipids to reduce the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of ageing and sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)-damaged skin. The observations made depended on the experimental design and clearly raised the question of the importance of the galenic formulation of skin ceramide-containing products.

Objectives: The aim of the present work was to study the different galenic forms in which ceramide 3B (0.2% w/v) can be incorporated into common o/w emulsions. In addition, we investigated whether supplementation of skin care products with ceramide 3B enriched with penetration enhancers and coemulsifiers could exert a beneficial effect on barrier function, done by measuring their effects on the TEWL of SLS-induced scaly skin.

Results: We found that the technique of incorporating ceramide 3B into the o/w emulsions was important for their final stability. However, no additional positive effect on the TEWL values of SLS-damaged skin could be observed when the efficacy of the ceramide-containing emulsions was compared with that of proper controls.

Conclusions: Although suitable galenic formulas were developed, no positive effect on TEWL could be observed when ceramide 3B was added in a final concentration of 0.2% (w/v) to different o/w emulsions and applied to SLS-damaged skin.